Sunday, April 14, 2024

Here are the important things to know about the latest styles at Milan Fashion Week

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The latest Milan fashion show, which ended yesterday, was different from the usual flashy displays. Instead, designers focused on a more serious tone, encouraging people to invest in their clothing. They didn’t introduce bold new styles but stuck to what they are known for. It wasn’t a celebration of fashion; it was a moment to think.

The top designers spoke up about how fashion can bring positivity, without getting into specific problems the world is facing. Miuccia Prada, backstage after her show, mentioned that she and Raf Simons wanted to create something that reflects love and goodness, especially in these tough times. Donatella Versace, in her office across town, also talked about the need for courage in today’s world and how fashion can bring people together in a positive way.

Giorgio Armani, who has a lot of experience in the industry, said, “We’re not trying to change the whole world or fix all its problems, but we can offer people a little moment of happiness.” Matthieu Blazy from Bottega Veneta was more straightforward, saying, “In a world that’s in chaos, there’s something very human about just getting dressed. We all see the same news, and it’s tough to be cheerful right now. But the idea of starting fresh is nice, too.”

People really felt that vibe across the collections, especially in what we can call Franken-styles. It’s like taking bits of one thing, adding some pieces of another, and sewing them together to create a cool mix.

At Prada, a blazer that seemed all wool at first glance surprised from behind with a silky waistcoat, and skirts sported a mix of apron and negligee. Over at Bottega Veneta, Blazy creatively blended shapes from different times, using pins to cinch dresses, while MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti, inspired by Truman Capote’s “La Cote Basque” essay, incorporated zips around the body, like stitches holding everything in place, poised to come apart at any moment.

Now, about the evolution of the twinset:
The unusual theme continued with the knitted fashion showcased at Ferragamo, Fendi, Tod’s, and Prada, marking the next step in the twinset’s development. Knitwear is embracing a more-is-more approach next season, with cardigans and jumpers casually draped and layered together in a carefully carefree fashion.

Switching things up from the sea of black leather boots that were everywhere, this season’s trendy shoe is all about having fancy decorations all over it. Dolce & Gabbana had ostrich details that moved with every step, Jil Sander had stilettos wrapped in black goat hair, and Tod’s new design boss Matteo Tamburini spruced up the well-known Gommino driving shoe with leather tassels all around.

The 1980s, often seen as a fashion era people want to forget, is making a quiet comeback. Kim Jones stumbled upon a 1984 drawing by Karl Lagerfeld in the Fendi archives, taking him on a trip down memory lane with New Romantics, Leigh Bowery’s style, Judy Blame, and Princess Julia’s wardrobes. The fashion show featured quirky polka dots and a subtle nod to Jones’ hometown, London, which had a big impact on global design back then. Jones mentioned, “London influenced everyone designing at the time.”

At Giorgio Armani’s fashion event, the creator started the show with his model from the 1980s, Gina di Bernardo. She had appeared in many photos taken by the famous photographer Aldo Fallai for the brand back then. On the other hand, Donatella Versace reintroduced a blazer she had made for the musician Prince in the past. She mentioned it was designed to make him appear taller, featuring wide shoulders and a slim waist.

Old-fashioned leather jackets are making a comeback this winter. Despite being a classic winter fashion, they’re showing up everywhere this season – at brands like Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Bottega, Versace, and Diesel, just to name a few. Following the men’s fashion shows in January, the key to this trend is having long, sleek jackets without too much decoration. It’s inspired by the Matrix style.

Going into the shadows
Except for occasional bright red leather, the colors in Milan for Fall-Winter 2024 were mostly dark and practical. Dark khaki and olive greens took center stage, especially looking good at Ferragamo and Tod’s.

Even at MaxMara, known for its famous camel color, the creative director, Ian Griffiths, took a different approach by emphasizing the overall shape rather than the color. He mentioned backstage that it was refreshing to break away from camel for a season, explaining that they are not abandoning it but just taking a break.

They also introduced dark denim for the next season, specifically highlighting a clean and precisely pressed double selvedge-style denim.

Throughout the week of fashion shows, there was a noticeable emphasis on non-confrontational fashion. Except for the final show at Avavav, where models faced garbage thrown on the runway and the brand addressed its negative reviews on screens, the overall vibe in Milan was about preserving traditional craftsmanship rather than chasing after sensationalism. Designers focused on creating quality pieces rather than trying to completely change the fashion scene.

We’re not transforming the whole world or fixing all its issues, but we can bring a little brightness to people’s lives.

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